EVERYTHING ABOUT FEEDING BEES IN THE FALL

As summer transitions into fall, it's time to look at the hives and make some decisions. We want our hive's mite levels to be low, the hives to be heavy with food and the queen to be laying. If your hive has all three, great, no need to continue reading. However, if your hive could use some help, I'm here to lend a hand and clear up some confusion around feeding bees in the fall.

When to Feed Syrup

When it is below 57F (14C) outside, honey bees stay within the hive and form a loose cluster (though this can vary a little bit depending on the bee's genetics). When it's above these temperatures, honey bees are usually outside foraging for food and water. The best way to know whether it's warm enough for your bees to forage is to spend time observing your hive's entrance often. While it is still warm out (65F and above), the beekeeper can feed their bees liquid syrup to help them increase their food storage for winter and keep the queen laying. It's important to plan ahead and know when it's time to take the syrup out and prepare the hive for winter! It's almost always to do things too early that too late, so at this time of year keep an eye on the weather and make sure you have time to get that syrup out before it's too cold out.

Understanding Syrup Concentrations: 2:1 vs 1:1

There are two primary syrup concentrations used by beekeepers in the fall: 2:1 and 1:1 ratios. These numbers refer to the ratio of sugar to water by volume, and although both provide bees with food, they are usually fed for different reasons.

2:1 Syrup: The Fall Feeding Standard

A 2:1 syrup contains two parts sugar to one part water by volume (such as 2 measuring cups full of water and 4 measuring cups of sugar). The higher sugar concentration means bees expend less energy processing and concentrating the syrup, allowing them to store it more efficiently as winter reserves.

The thick consistency of 2:1 syrup also reduces the amount of excess moisture bees must remove before storage. This is particularly important in fall when cooler temperatures and shorter days limit the bees' ability to evaporate water from their food stores. When bees receive 2:1 syrup, they can quickly process and cap it, creating stable food reserves that won't ferment over the winter months.

1:1 Syrup: The Spring and Summer Solution

A 1:1 syrup contains equal parts sugar and water by volume, creating a thinner consistency that more closely resembles natural nectar. This concentration is primarily used for spring stimulative feeding, when the goal is to encourage brood production and colony growth rather than food storage.

The thinner consistency of 1:1 syrup requires more processing by the bees, which actually stimulates their activity and encourages the queen to increase egg laying. Many beekeepers feed a 1:1 syrup in the late summer and fall instead of 2:1. A general rule of thumb is to feed a 2:1 syrup if your queen is laying and you are solely looking to help your bees increase the amount of food in the hive quickly before winter comes. If your hive has a good amount of food, but the lack of flowers blooming is causing your queen bee to lay less or the overall population is low, for example because a new queen was put in recently, then a 1:1 syrup is recommended.

Timing Your Fall Feeding Program

When to Begin Liquid Syrup Feeding

The optimal time to begin fall syrup feeding depends on several factors including your geographic location, local nectar flows, and colony condition. Generally, fall feeding should commence when natural nectar sources begin to decline, typically in late August or early September in most temperate regions.

Monitor your local environment for signs that natural forage is diminishing. These include the end of major nectar flows like goldenrod or aster, reduced flight activity during traditional foraging hours, and lighter hive weights during weekly inspections. A colony that feels noticeably lighter when lifted from the back is likely running low on stores and needs supplemental feeding.

Begin feeding when colonies have less than 40 pounds of stored honey in a single deep hive body, or less than 60 pounds in a double deep configuration. These weights provide a safety margin, as most colonies need 30-40 pounds of honey to survive a typical winter, though this varies significantly by climate zone.

When to Stop Liquid Syrup Feeding

Knowing when to stop feeding liquid syrup is as important as knowing when to start. Continue feeding until one of several conditions is met: the colony has adequate winter stores or the outdoor temperatures consistently drop below 65°F.

The Downsides of Syrup Feeding

While supplemental feeding is often necessary, it's important to understand the potential negative consequences of syrup feeding. Sugar syrup, regardless of concentration, is not nutritionally equivalent to honey and lacks many of the beneficial compounds, enzymes, and trace elements found in natural honey.

Honey contains natural antimicrobial properties, antioxidants, and trace minerals that support bee health and longevity. Syrup lacks these beneficial compounds, potentially leaving bees more susceptible to diseases and reducing their overall vigor. Some studies suggest that colonies fed exclusively on syrup may have shorter lifespans and reduced disease resistance compared to those with access to natural honey stores.

Feeding syrup can also create dependency issues if done improperly. Colonies that receive frequent syrup feeding may become less motivated to forage naturally, potentially missing opportunities to gather pollen, propolis, and other beneficial substances from their environment.

Additionally, improper syrup feeding can trigger robbing behavior, particularly if syrup is spilled outside the hive or if feeders are poorly designed. Robbing can stress colonies, spread diseases between hives, and create aggressive behavior that makes hive management more difficult.

Making 2:1 Syrup: The Recipe and Process

Use pure cane sugar /white sugar, avoiding brown sugar, raw sugar, or honey, as these can contain impurities, vitamins and minerals that can harm the bees.

To make 2:1 syrup, combine 16 cups of white granulated sugar with 8 cups of water. Heat the water to near boiling, then gradually add sugar while stirring continuously until completely dissolved. Avoid boiling the mixture once sugar is added, as excessive heat can caramelize the sugar and create compounds that are toxic to bees.

Some beekeepers add feeding stimulants like Honey-B-Healthy or essential oil blends to their syrup. While not necessary, these additives will prevent the syrup from going bad as quickly. However, syrup lasts about a week inside the hive and at this time of year I have found that the bees consume it fast enough ot not need the additive. 

Store unused syrup in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Discard any syrup that develops off-odors, visible fermentation, or mold growth, as these can harm bees and contaminate hives.

Creating a Mason Jar Feeder

One of the most economical and effective feeding methods uses common mason jars converted into gravity feeders. This method provides controlled feeding while minimizing the risk of drowning and robbing.

Start with a standard wide-mouth mason jar and new lid. Using a hammer and nail (I use a nail for assembling beehive frames) and punch 4+ holes in the lid. Holes should be large enough to allow syrup to drip slowly but small enough to prevent flooding.

Test your hole size by filling the jar with water and inverting it. Water should drip steadily but not stream from the holes. If water streams out, the holes are too large and may drown bees or create feeding frenzy conditions. If no water comes out, holes are too small and bees won't be able to access the syrup effectively.

Fill the completed feeder with cooled 2:1 syrup, leaving about a 1/4" of airspace at the top. Screw on the punctured lid tightly, then quickly invert the jar. Initial dripping is normal as air pressure equalizes, but flow should stop within a minute or two as vacuum pressure balances with atmospheric pressure.

Installing Inverted Feeders in Your Hive

Inverted feeders, also called top feeders, are installed directly on top of the hive body, making them easily accessible for refilling while minimizing disturbance to the colony. This feeding method is particularly effective in fall when you want to avoid frequent hive openings that can chill the brood nest.

To install a mason jar feeder, center the inverted jar over the inner cover's oval hole, ensuring the punctured lid makes contact with the inner cover surface. If you do not have an inner cover or want to put more than 1 jar into the hive at a time, you can use small pieces of wood (shims), sticks, a metal queen excluder or the dadant inverted feeder holder to elevate the jars enough to allow bees to access the holes. See video for the different ways this can be done.

Place an empty hive body around the inverted feeder, providing protection from weather and robber bees. This empty super creates a feeding chamber while maintaining hive security. Cover the setup with your regular telescoping cover, ensuring adequate ventilation to prevent moisture buildup.

Monitor feeder consumption every few days initially to gauge acceptance and consumption rates. A strong colony can consume a quart of syrup in 24-48 hours during peak fall feeding. Refill feeders before they're completely empty to maintain consistent food availability.

Position feeders to minimize heat loss from the hive. In cooler climates, insulate the feeding chamber with straw, leaves, or commercial hive insulation to maintain cluster temperature while bees access the feeder.

Types of Feeders: Choosing the Right Tool for Fall Feeding

Several feeder types are available to beekeepers, each with distinct advantages and limitations for fall feeding applications. Understanding these differences helps you choose the most appropriate system for your management style and local conditions.

Top Feeders

Commercial top feeders are wooden or plastic boxes that sit directly on the hive body and hold several gallons of syrup. These feeders provide large capacity feeding with minimal disturbance, making them ideal for fall feeding when frequent hive openings should be avoided.

Top feeders typically include bee escapes or ladders to prevent drowning and are designed to maintain hive security while providing easy access for refilling. The large capacity means less frequent refilling, though they require a significant initial investment compared to DIY options and can lead to a few bee deaths due to drowning.

Boardman Feeders (Entrance Feeders)

Boardman feeders use inverted jars positioned at the hive entrance, making refilling possible without opening the hive. While convenient, entrance feeders are problematic for fall feeding as they can attract robbing behavior and are difficult for clustered bees to access in cool weather.

Division Board Feeders (In-Hive Feeders)

Division board feeders replace one or more frames within the hive body, providing internal feeding access while maintaining hive security. These feeders work well for fall feeding as they're protected from weather and positioned close to the cluster.

However, division board feeders reduce available brood space and require hive opening for refilling, potentially disturbing the cluster during sensitive fall preparation periods. I do not recommend this type of feeder.

Recommended Fall Feeding Setup

For early fall feeding with liquid syrup, inverted mason jar feeders positioned above the cluster offer the best combination of economy, effectiveness, and bee safety. The controlled drip rate prevents drowning, the overhead position is accessible to clustered bees, and the protected location minimizes robbing risks.

Use multiple jars for strong colonies needing rapid feeding, spacing them to distribute access points across the cluster area. This arrangement allows maximum feeding capacity while maintaining the controlled delivery that makes jar feeders so effective.

Monitoring and Managing Your Fall Feeding Program

Successful fall feeding requires ongoing monitoring and adjustment based on colony response, weather conditions, and consumption patterns. Check feeders every 2-3 days initially to establish baseline consumption rates and ensure proper function.

Strong colonies may consume a quart of 2:1 syrup daily during peak feeding periods, while weaker colonies may take several days to empty the same amount. Adjust feeding frequency and volume based on these consumption patterns, providing consistent access without overwhelming weaker colonies.

Monitor for signs of robbing, including increased activity around feeders, fighting at the hive entrance, or rapid consumption accompanied by aggressive behavior. If robbing occurs, reduce feeder capacity, move feeders farther from entrance areas, or temporarily suspend feeding until robbing behavior subsides.

Track total syrup consumption to estimate stored reserves. As a rough guide, bees store approximately 80% of consumed 2:1 syrup as honey reserves, with the remainder used for immediate energy needs. A colony that consumes 15 pounds of 2:1 syrup will store approximately 12 pounds as honey reserves.

Continue monitoring hive weights throughout the feeding period using a hive scale or periodic lifting assessments. Stop feeding when colonies reach target weights: approximately 130-140 pounds total weight for single deep hives in moderate climates, or 160-180 pounds for double deep configurations.

Weather monitoring is equally important, as falling temperatures and shorter days signal the end of effective syrup feeding periods. Begin transitioning to solid winter feeding options like fondant or sugar cakes when daytime temperatures consistently remain below 50°F or when you're within six weeks of average first frost dates.

Conclusion

Early fall feeding represents a critical intervention that can determine colony survival through winter months. By understanding the differences between syrup concentrations, timing feeding programs appropriately, and using effective feeding methods, beekeepers provide their colonies with the resources needed for successful overwintering.

Remember that feeding is a supplement to, not a replacement for, proper seasonal management. Strong colonies with adequate natural stores, effective varroa mite control, and appropriate hive configurations are more likely to successfully utilize supplemental feeding and survive winter challenges.

The investment in time and materials for fall feeding pays dividends in colony survival and spring buildup success. Colonies that enter winter with adequate food reserves emerge stronger, build population faster, and are more productive in the following season. Master the techniques outlined in this guide, and you'll provide your bees with the foundation they need for long-term success.