Brood boxes, supers, deeps, mediums, shallows – these are all names for the three different types of boxes you can have on your Langstroth beehive. It makes buying beekeeping equipment flat out confusing. The good news is that it's actually very simple. In short, there are three different heights for the boxes you can put on your beehive. They are deep, medium and shallow. There are additional names for these boxes, but what's most important is that you know the dimensions when purchasing the equipment. although dimensions vary by country the deep is usually 9-5/8", the medium is 6-5/8", and the shallow is 5-3/4".
Let's break them down one-by-one.
The deep box is sometimes called the brood box or the hive body. It is the deepest box you can put on a Langstroth hive. It measures approximately 9 5/8" deep.
This box is often used when first starting your beehive. You would purchase bees and put them into a single brood/deep box. Once this box gets...
I'm always baffled by beekeepers who don't know what to do about varroa mites. It's as if some people think it's a mysterious plague with no cure. There are quite a few ways to get rid of a varroa mite infestation! It really is quite simple.
This blog post is about Apivar strips. Apivar strips are quite possibly the easiest mite treatment you can get. They require no tools and there's only two things you have to do - put them in and take them out.
They use a synthetic chemical called amitraz and this really zeroes out your mite levels in the hive. However, in some areas this chemical has been overused and varroa mites resistant to amitraz have developed. In these areas, apivar is not very effective.
Amitraz is a synthetic chemical and quite toxic to humans, so use caution when working with it.
There's only 1 way to know for sure, use them and see what happens. Do a mite test, first, to see what your hive's...
There are lots of tricks the beekeeper has to saving time. This is one of my favorites. When I worked for an apiary with 4,000 hives, it was run by just 7 beekeepers. A trick I learned from them is to use bitter almond oil to get bees out of a honey super so you can harvest the honey.
When using bitter almond oil to clear out a super, it's recommended that you use a fume board or breeze board to disperse the scent throughout the hive. However, I really hate buying equipment that I will only use once in awhile, nor do I have the room to store all of this stuff, so I try to use what I have laying around whenever possible. This makes for some "interesting" beekeeping on my part, but, hey, I find it fun :)
In the YouTube video above, I show you my experience using bitter almond oil without a fume board or breeze board. First I try using a smoker to billow the scent into the super. This is recommended on Fischer's instructions as an...
There's a lot to learn when you're first getting started keeping bees. One thing you don't have to worry about is what kind of beehive you should get. Really! I recommend ALL beginners start out with a Langstroth style beehive. If you'd like to experiment with other hive styles, thats great, but, do that once you're comfortable keeping bees, not when you're first starting out.
When you inspect a hive, you're usually checking the temper, space, activity, brood, and laying pattern. But there are additional duties you should be doing or at least keeping an eye out for depending on the season as well.
I created a chart to help you understand what these seasonal tasks are and when they should be done. Thank Angela for this guide! She is a student and asked about the seasonal tasks beekeepers do.
When using this guide, use the temperature range for each season as your main guide for when your duties will be changing. What month it is is not as important. Keep in mind, beekeeping is not an exact science. Some years you have a rainy spring and some years it's warm in March! You have to listen to your bees and notice what's going on in your environment. You do this by observing what's blooming, how active the bees are, what the queen is doing and the outside...
The small hive beetle is a pest found within the beehive. It is not as destructive as the varroa mite, but is something the beekeeper should be aware of. The most important thing the beekeeper can do to prevent an infestation is keep varroa mite levels low. A strong hive with few mites can defend themselves against beetles. This is not just my opinion, but something I learned from working at a commercial apiary with 4,000 hives. They lost over 75% of their hives to the small hive beetle and now hardly ever lose a hive to beetles. The only thing they do differently is treat for mites.
It is ok to see a few beetles scurrying around your hive. You should only be alarmed if you see a lot of beetles in the hive (not just under the lid but on the frames) especially walking around the comb in the center of the hive. However, most beekeepers hate seeing these guys in the hive and want to trap as many as they can, whether it's necessary or not. If you live somewhere with a cold...
A lot of articles and news stories talk about the collapse of the honey bee population and how important it is to help them, but really, it’s all pollinators that need our help.
There are over 19,000 different kinds of bees and 30% of them live in a tunnel or cavity. You can help these tunnel-nesting pollinators out by providing a place for them to call home. I'm not sure where the name came from, but kids these days are calling it a bee hotel.
Making a bee hotel is a fancy way of saying you're collecting hollow tubes, putting them somewhere and leaving them alone all Spring and Summer. Some tunnel-nesting bees that might visit your hotel are leaf cutters, mason bees, yellow-faced bees and carpenter bees. However, leaf cutters and mason bees are the most common bees you will see at your "hotel".
A bee hotel is a fun way to say you’re gathering things with holes in them and leaving them alone. However, there are...
Here's a list of state bee clubs as well as local beekeeping associations according to state.
When you watch the Flow Hive video, everything looks perfect. The honey flows right into the jar. No bees fly into the honey. The honey doesn't go too fast or too slow. It looks magical. But then you do it and things don't go as smoothly.
I harvested from the flow hive this Summer and had some issues. Now if your hive is small, like in the flow videos, and is just one brood box with one honey super on top, you might not need this tutorial. But if you live somewhere cold and you need more than one super on your beehive or your hive is FULL like ours and bursting with bees, I hope you watch our video. I'm going to show you how to use a long tube when harvesting from the flow hive so that you don't have to stand there and wait for the honey to pour into jars.
Attach a 1-3/8" tube to the tube that comes with the flow...
You extracted some honey and now have a bunch of beautiful, drawn out comb. Ideally, you would store it until next Spring/Summer, but how can you do that without it getting attacked by insects and rodents?
For those of you who live in a place with a cold winter, you won't have to worry too much about insects attacking your comb, you just need to keep it safe from animals (mostly mice). Those of you in warm climates will have a tougher time with this because a lot of insects are going to want to eat the comb and it's a lot harder to keep them away.
A way to keep the amount of frames you have to store down to a minimum is to do 2 smaller honey harvests instead of 1 big one. The bees will reuse the comb from the first harvest and you'll have fewer frames of comb to store over winter.